倫敦藝術大學中央聖馬丁藝術與設計學院前院長

（現任天麟海外藝術創意啟發中心榮譽學術總監）

Jane Rapley 採訪錄

     中央聖馬丁藝術和設計學院是享譽設計的頂級設計學院，坐落於倫敦市中心，該學院擁有得天獨厚的時尚文化底蘊。提供的課程也十分廣泛，包括服裝，紡織品設計，純美術，平面設計，產品設計，建築和表演等。並以其充滿創造力的學生，教職員工和畢業生世界聞名，引領著世界潮流。

     我們倫敦藝術大學授權廣州招生代表處辦公室非常榮幸地請來了中央聖馬丁的前院長 Jane Rapley OBE, 給有志於申請中央聖馬丁藝術與設計學院的學子們指點迷津。以下是我們的訪談錄：

1.    As we know, University of Arts London including CSM has high requirements for the portfolio. Could you advice the students what make a good portfolio in Bachelor courses and Master course respectively?

眾所周知，倫敦藝術大學包括中央聖馬丁以其對作品集的高要求而著稱。您能就如何準備一個好的作品集，給申請本科及碩士學位課程的中國學生們一點建議嗎？

The basic principles are that portfolio can demonstrate their creative skills. The portfolio is different slightly depends on which sort of subject they want to study. For example, if you are going to study product design, we want to see you have a good 3D sense. The portfolio shows your understanding of materials and the way you think is quite logical and analytical. If we are looking at textile portfolio, we would want to see you have very strong sense of color, texture and materials. You love the stuff you touch. If you are going to do print-textile, you should draw well and have a good pattern sense.

關於作品集，最基本的原則是要能展示學生的創作技巧，而申請不同的科目所要準備的作品集也略有不同。打個比方，如果你想申請產品設計，那麼我們就想從你的作品集裏看到較好的三維立體展示。作品集除了要體現學生對於材料的理解，還要看他們的思維方式是否合乎邏輯分析。例如我們在看紡織品設計的作品集時，我們會希望看到學生在運用色彩、質地及材料方面的能力，學生深深喜愛他們觸摸的材料。而如果你想要申請的是紡織品印刷專業，那麼你必須展示你的繪畫功底以及對各種圖案圖樣的理解能力。

For womenswear it is competitive and popular, you need to demonstrate you have a view about fashion. You have whole point of the world. You got to demonstrate you think about things in a broad sense and aware what is happening in the world. Particularly it is an advantage if you can draw well. In your drawing, you demonstrate your understanding of the body, you understand why you are making certain shapes. You are not about decorating because in the end fashion is about culture and 3D form. It is not the flat thing. It is actually about body, body’s move. Good color, sense of fabric and idea! Ideas are not just about copying famous designers. Ideas are about to demonstrate you are getting ideas from wide sources. 

對於女裝設計專業，申請的學生很多，所以競爭也非常大，學生需要在作品集裏面表達自己對時尚的理解，以及對於國際時尚業的見解，學生的想法裏要包含一定的國際觀，也需要知道國際時尚圈發生了什麼事。當然，如果繪畫功底很不錯，這樣也會對申請加分。學生需要在繪畫裏表達自己對於人體的理解，要明白為什麼要設計製作這些特定形狀。學生要知道，服裝的作用並不僅僅是修飾，更重要的是體現文化和三維立體的形式，因為服裝並不是平面的，它是要穿在身上的，而身體是會活動的。好的色彩，面料的運用，創新的想法，都是服裝設計必不可少的。而想法並不是複製有名的設計師的設計就可以，而是需要從廣泛的資訊來源中獲取。

Generally in the portfolio it demonstrate your imagination, it shows your ideas. You have options and have personal view about things you are looking at, personal view about how you solve the problem.

總的來說，作品集最重要的是體現你的想像力，表達你自己的想法。這裏面要體現你對於事物的個人看法，以及你解決問題的方式。

For postgraduate portfolio, by time we expect to see the very personal portfolio. We do not expect to see something general. By that time, we expect you to be quite clear why you want to go to the postgraduate course, what you want to do, what is your ambitiousness. We expect to see much more personal ideas. Being individual. Particularly in fashion design, the applicants need to demonstrate they understand the world. They are talking about what is happening in fashion.

對於申請碩士研究生的作品集，我們最希望能從作品集裏看到學生最個性化的一面，而不是一些綜合的籠統介紹。我們希望學生能非常清晰自己為什麼要申請碩士課程，最想要做的是什麼，未來的目標是什麼，我們想看到的是很個性化的東西。尤其是在服裝設計方面，學生能表達自己的世界觀，瞭解國際時尚圈的動態。

Undergraduate portfolio can demonstrate your ability to develop concepts, your ability to work with a range of material, processes and techniques. You are not relying on the course; you do something well and put more into it. You have to be interested.

申請本科課程的作品集，我們更看重的是學生的各方面能力，從設計最初的理念，到著手選材、規劃步驟、材料處理技巧等等，學生不能只想著能從課程裏學到什麼，而是要找到自己感興趣並做的好的方向，然後投入更多精力更深入地去研究。

2.     How can the students stand out from the other applicants in the interview?

學生要怎麼從眾多的面試申請者中突圍而出呢？

They have got to be themselves. We are not looking for one type of personality. What they need to do in interview is to listen to the questions and think and use opportunities to demonstrate themselves, also be prepared to ask questions themselves. To have enough conversation, be enough confident, well appear to be confident. You learn how to deal with the situation. Not to be overconfident. Try to be calm. Be sure that you answer the questions. Do not simply answer the question Yes or No, you should talk more. You deliver the way that you are. Moreover, you should know how to use the questions and said what you want to say. You need to use the situation and give rich information about yourself you can.

學生要很好地展示自己。我們並不是在找特定的某一類學生，所以學生在面試的時候，一定要聽清楚問題，然後仔細思考，抓住機會來表現自己，然後也要抓緊機會發問。面試中要多與面試官交談，要有足夠的自信，至少表現出來要非常自信，但絕不能自傲。還有就是要冷靜，要確保自己不是答非所問。回答問題的時候也不要簡單的說“是”或“不是”，而是要說的深入一點，表達清楚自己的想法和見解。最重要的是，要懂得怎麼結合問題來表達自己的想法，要懂得運用不同的情景來展示自我。

3.     Do the students get high stress in CSM? What do you suggest Chinese students should do to deal with this kind of situation?

在中央聖馬丁學習的壓力會很大嗎？您能建議一下中國學生應如何處理壓力過大的情況嗎？

Firstly, I want to say the students should choose the course right for them. CSM is not suited for everyone. You choose the stage that you are. You have found your ambitiousness.

首先，我要說的是，學生必須選擇適合自己的課程。中央聖馬丁並不適合所有人。你要選對自己的舞臺，找對自己的目標。

Secondly, it is possible that their expectation is too high. Look at the reality. It is quite competitive and challenging. Because of a lot of investment, family expect too high. If you go to somewhere that you think it is the famous course, you are the brilliant one. Suddenly you find there are thousands of you in the community. You are not the big fish anymore.

其次，有可能是期望值太高。要懂得面對現實，因為這是很激烈的競爭和很大的挑戰，而家長大量的經濟投入，也可能導致對學生過高的期望。有些學生認為自己進的是最有名的課程，自己也很拔尖，突然間發現，身邊的人全都和自己一樣的突出，自己不再是最拔尖的那個。

Thus, make friends by trying not with the other Chinese students but with ones across areas. Help each other, because that helps homesick. University has a lot of support, find out and use them.

因此，中國學生不應該僅限於跟其他中國學生交朋友，而是要儘量與其他國家地區的學生交朋友，再有就是學生之間要互相幫助，這樣在學校也更有家的感覺。當然，學校也有提供一系列的幫助，學生要學會找到有關服務並正確的使用。

4.     What are the important factors for the art and design students?

對於學習藝術設計的學生來說，最重要的因素是什麼？

l       Be hungry to take into information. 要有饑渴的求知欲。

l       Be greedy. Be sponge everything, to have strong personal view. 要像海綿一樣貪婪地吸收各種資訊，要建立強烈的個人觀點。

l       Be totally curious, and to ask questions. 時刻保持好奇心，多想多問。

l       To do more, look widely, research more experimentally. 刻苦研究，開拓自己的眼界，多做實驗。

l       To have some view about the world, have broad sense of not only what is happening in one subject, but in the world. 建立廣闊的世界觀，不能局限於某一方面。

l       To handle the situation, emotion and problems by themselves. 要學會獨立處理突發事件及情緒問題。

l       Be creative. What was so rich in Galliano’s imagination? He was fascinated by different parts of the world, different cultures, decoration, materials, history and so forth. He worked and worked. He spent much time in the libraries and museums, sponge everything, all go into his hands. 時刻謹記創新。為什麼Galliano的想像力那麼豐富？就是因為他無時無刻不被這個世界吸引著，不同的文化、裝飾、材料、歷史等等方面，他不辭勞苦，花費大量的時間在圖書館和博物館，吸收著各種知識，應用於創作。